Check Engine
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- 29. Feb. 2004
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Da würden sich viele DI-Zweifelnde freuen, wenn das Lämpchen brennen würde. So gut haben es die Saab-Ing. leider nicht mit uns gemeint . Und mit dem "direkt merken" ist es auch so eine Sache. Manche schwören darauf die DI Cas im fortgeschrittenen Stadium alle paar Monate mal unter die Lupe zu nehmen.
- Registriert
- 29. Feb. 2004
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Ich kopiere mal fremdes "Wissen" ein:
Just a note for those DI-equipped cars out there-
My '92 finally suffered a DI failure. It was gradual and the car was quite driveable when I replaced it. It started as a slight misfire at low throttle settings/low rpm.
I inspected the DI by flipping it over and removing the plastic cover. Indeed, the oil level in each tube was quite low. A year ago I had inspected the DI coils, and they had good oil levels and showed no signs of leakage.
So if your DI is getting on in years/miles, I suggest doing an inspection every 6 months or so. It only takes a few minutes. Check the oil levels. Also look at the TOP of each spark plug - look for any signs of carbon or burning. There is no question that too big a spark plug gap will kill a DI. The DI coil connects to the top of the plug via a spring. If that spring gets tired, the connection will be poor, and this is the equivalent of increasing the plug gap. I had signs of carbon buildup on one plug and on the mating surface of the corresponding coil, telling me that the spring wasn't making good contact.
Will this keep you from ever having a sudden DI failure? Probably not. But for a decent number of failures, it should give you enough warning to get a new cassette before you get stranded.
Heck, if the DI is out, check those plug gaps. I have found plug gaps to open up in as little as 10K miles. So don't assume that plugs can go untended for 30K or more.
Check engine könnte zum Bleistift die Lambda-Sonde sein. Läßt sich aber leicht durchmessen.
Just a note for those DI-equipped cars out there-
My '92 finally suffered a DI failure. It was gradual and the car was quite driveable when I replaced it. It started as a slight misfire at low throttle settings/low rpm.
I inspected the DI by flipping it over and removing the plastic cover. Indeed, the oil level in each tube was quite low. A year ago I had inspected the DI coils, and they had good oil levels and showed no signs of leakage.
So if your DI is getting on in years/miles, I suggest doing an inspection every 6 months or so. It only takes a few minutes. Check the oil levels. Also look at the TOP of each spark plug - look for any signs of carbon or burning. There is no question that too big a spark plug gap will kill a DI. The DI coil connects to the top of the plug via a spring. If that spring gets tired, the connection will be poor, and this is the equivalent of increasing the plug gap. I had signs of carbon buildup on one plug and on the mating surface of the corresponding coil, telling me that the spring wasn't making good contact.
Will this keep you from ever having a sudden DI failure? Probably not. But for a decent number of failures, it should give you enough warning to get a new cassette before you get stranded.
Heck, if the DI is out, check those plug gaps. I have found plug gaps to open up in as little as 10K miles. So don't assume that plugs can go untended for 30K or more.
Check engine könnte zum Bleistift die Lambda-Sonde sein. Läßt sich aber leicht durchmessen.
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Und nochmal was.
The cassette is held onto the engine with four bolts. Typically 10 mm. Just remove the bolts, and lift the DI Up. Lifting one side first a little helps, and the DI has a nice hand grip built right in.
Newer DI's have a cable that disconnects at the DI. Don't bother - you can do this with the DI right at the engine.
Flip it over - you'll see a plastic cover, which has four cylinders rising up. It's held onto the DI with some Torx screws. Undo the screws, and simply lift the plastic cover off.
You'll see four whitish cylinders (coils) sitting on the circuit board. In older units, you can see components on the circuit board - on newer ones, the board is totally potted. The coils can be lifted off. Don't. Nothing bad happens if you do, but just make sure you put it back correctly.
I hold the DI up to a bright light, and look for the oil level in the coil. It should be around 90% full. This isn't an exact measurement. Good coils have oil, with just a little airspace showing. Bad coils have very little oil left, and have signs of oil leakage. You may also see burning/carbon buildup on the metal tip of the coil.
The coils can't be serviced - you can't add oil. The coils are removeable, but I don't know of anyone replacing just a single coil.
There really isn't any maintenance. If you see burning/carbon on the tip of the coil, that indicates that the spring (still in the rubber boot on the plastic bit you removed) isn't making good contact. I'd brighten up the surface and check out the spring. However, my guess is that if this has been going on for long, the DI is on the way out.
Put things back together by putting the cover back on and tightening (not overtightening!) the screws. Make sure the springs haven't fallen out (don't ask me how I know this).
Pull the spark plugs and check the gap. It should be 0.040 (1 mm) If the plugs look worn in any way, replace them. Cheap insurance. If I need to re-gap them, I always go for 1 mm, but cheat on the narrow side, as plug gap usually increases with age and use. I stick anti-sieze compound on the plug threads; WD-40 will work, too. Makes them go in (and more importantly, come out) easier.
Put the DI back on and tighten the 10 mm bolts.
The DI either works or it doesn't, and frankly, requires maintenance like a light bulb - replace it when it doesn't work. Since a dead DI means an engine that won't run, it's nice to be able to avoid some percentage of failures that will leave you on the side of the road. Inspecting the DI regularly should give you some warning, allowing you to get a new one. And by checking the plug gap regularly, you will keep the DI running longer. This is not a perfect system; there are still DI failures that occur with no warning (zero prognostic lead time, in the parlance). But reducing risk is still good.
The cassette is held onto the engine with four bolts. Typically 10 mm. Just remove the bolts, and lift the DI Up. Lifting one side first a little helps, and the DI has a nice hand grip built right in.
Newer DI's have a cable that disconnects at the DI. Don't bother - you can do this with the DI right at the engine.
Flip it over - you'll see a plastic cover, which has four cylinders rising up. It's held onto the DI with some Torx screws. Undo the screws, and simply lift the plastic cover off.
You'll see four whitish cylinders (coils) sitting on the circuit board. In older units, you can see components on the circuit board - on newer ones, the board is totally potted. The coils can be lifted off. Don't. Nothing bad happens if you do, but just make sure you put it back correctly.
I hold the DI up to a bright light, and look for the oil level in the coil. It should be around 90% full. This isn't an exact measurement. Good coils have oil, with just a little airspace showing. Bad coils have very little oil left, and have signs of oil leakage. You may also see burning/carbon buildup on the metal tip of the coil.
The coils can't be serviced - you can't add oil. The coils are removeable, but I don't know of anyone replacing just a single coil.
There really isn't any maintenance. If you see burning/carbon on the tip of the coil, that indicates that the spring (still in the rubber boot on the plastic bit you removed) isn't making good contact. I'd brighten up the surface and check out the spring. However, my guess is that if this has been going on for long, the DI is on the way out.
Put things back together by putting the cover back on and tightening (not overtightening!) the screws. Make sure the springs haven't fallen out (don't ask me how I know this).
Pull the spark plugs and check the gap. It should be 0.040 (1 mm) If the plugs look worn in any way, replace them. Cheap insurance. If I need to re-gap them, I always go for 1 mm, but cheat on the narrow side, as plug gap usually increases with age and use. I stick anti-sieze compound on the plug threads; WD-40 will work, too. Makes them go in (and more importantly, come out) easier.
Put the DI back on and tighten the 10 mm bolts.
The DI either works or it doesn't, and frankly, requires maintenance like a light bulb - replace it when it doesn't work. Since a dead DI means an engine that won't run, it's nice to be able to avoid some percentage of failures that will leave you on the side of the road. Inspecting the DI regularly should give you some warning, allowing you to get a new one. And by checking the plug gap regularly, you will keep the DI running longer. This is not a perfect system; there are still DI failures that occur with no warning (zero prognostic lead time, in the parlance). But reducing risk is still good.
turbo9000
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- SAAB
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Check engine:
Fehler in Zündungs- und / oder Einspritz - Komponenten.
Lambdasonde ist eine typische mögliche Fehlerquelle (Kabelbruch/Marderfrass/defekt).
Die DI-box gehört zwar zu den Zündkomponenten, wird aber leider nicht durch diese Warnung angezeigt, andererseits ist es für DIch nicht sooo schlecht, da dieses Teil verdammt teuer ist....
Fehler in Zündungs- und / oder Einspritz - Komponenten.
Lambdasonde ist eine typische mögliche Fehlerquelle (Kabelbruch/Marderfrass/defekt).
Die DI-box gehört zwar zu den Zündkomponenten, wird aber leider nicht durch diese Warnung angezeigt, andererseits ist es für DIch nicht sooo schlecht, da dieses Teil verdammt teuer ist....
- Registriert
- 11. Okt. 2003
- Beiträge
- 186
- Danke
- 8
- SAAB
- 9000 II
- Baujahr
- 1992
- Turbo
- FPT
Mahlzeit !
Ich denke, daß die Mitteilung "check engine" so aussagekräftig ist, wie "da is irgendwat".
Ich kann Dir zumindest sagen, was es bei mir war :
Nachdem der Saab - Mann meines Vertrauens ( Emmerich ) die Fehler ausgelesen hatte und wir drei Dinge ausschließen konnten ( drei mal fehlerhafter Tempomat ) war es dann Schluß - und letztendlich der Luftmassenmesser ( seid der Zeit auch mein Lieblingswort ).
Den haben wir dann gegen einen gebrauchten ( 50 Euro ) ausgetauscht und die lästige Lampe blieb aus...
greetings
Ich denke, daß die Mitteilung "check engine" so aussagekräftig ist, wie "da is irgendwat".
Ich kann Dir zumindest sagen, was es bei mir war :
Nachdem der Saab - Mann meines Vertrauens ( Emmerich ) die Fehler ausgelesen hatte und wir drei Dinge ausschließen konnten ( drei mal fehlerhafter Tempomat ) war es dann Schluß - und letztendlich der Luftmassenmesser ( seid der Zeit auch mein Lieblingswort ).
Den haben wir dann gegen einen gebrauchten ( 50 Euro ) ausgetauscht und die lästige Lampe blieb aus...
greetings