Bullet

Finally got to the bottom of it. We got out the infotainment system (with navigation), plugged it back in, inserted the navigation DVD (and I assume this set the time and date through GPS automatically) and now the parking heater works like a charm. It's true what they say about the complicated problems having the simplest of answers. http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/images/smilies/icon_cheesygrin.gif Thank you for your support

Tech II doesn't read anything wrong, sadly. Funny thing is, all time related things cannot be set (calendar, alarm, service timer) They'll try to swap the ICE unit to see if it makes any difference, until then the car is still at the shop, so fingers crossed.

Hallo SAAB fans, My German isn't that good so I'll write in English if it's ok with you. The car in question is a 2007 Saab 9-3 SS 1.9TiD with the 2008 dash and navigation. The owner who is a friend of mine ran out of power a few days ago and since then he can't seem to be able to program the parking heater at all. The system works well with the engine running but with it off, when trying to program it via "Settings/Parking heater" or "Timing A, B sau C" the default option is off, and gives an error chime similar to the one in windows, when there's an error. The cause of the dead battery was a de-isolated ground cable between the battery and the alternator and it was fixed, and it now charges >14V. We put an OP-Com diagnostic tool on the car and erased some errors, but there is no heating control on this software. We set the date on the navigation because that might have an influence, but to no result. Any ideas ?

I live in Sibiu, Romania. Is there a way that I can do some kind of power flush myself ? 1. The gearbox oil smells normal and has that red-ish color, it's suppose to have. 2. The level is fine, just checked earlier today. 3. The culprit for the dim lights problem was the ignition switch. I managed to secure one from a friend who used to own several NG900s. The job of changing it, however, is not an easy one. It took me about 4 hours despite the fact that earlier this year I changed the heater core seals, another mammoth job. Instructions on how to change the ignition switch can be found here: http://pages.infinit.net/mlbriand/saab/heatcore.html and here http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/20070617a.Saab_NG900_Shifter_Housing_Removal/ Still have the gearbox issue, but this success is very good for moral.

The closest Saab shop is about 140 km away. The slipping thing only happens at the same time the dash lights are out, so I'm guessing the 2 problems are related somehow. I'll try to find an ignition switch to swap with mine to see is this is causing the dash lights problem, and also post a video, maybe it helps. The dash lights and speedometer/rev meter occasionally re-activate when driving the car. And yes, when the needles are out, so are the lights.

As if the gearbox issues weren't enough, now I have another one aswell. When I turn the ignition on, the dashboard lights dont't turn on as bright they should, they are very very dim, and the gauges remain down. If I fiddle with the key in the ignition, teh dash sometimes works as it should, but that happens less and less. Finally, I drove the car with no lights on the dash, and it was very strange, it lacked power, and in D (drive), it was like a slipping clutch, I had to step hard on the gas pedal just to drive off. Now, I don't know if this has anything to do with the gearbox issues or it's just the ignition switch, or the ignition barrel. May be they are all with fault ? I have owned the car for the last 4 years and, despite it's age, it was very reliable but it seems age has finally caught up with it :(

Hello Saab fans, I need your help again. My car (1996 NG900 Turbo automatic) started to behave badly, especially the gearbox. The last year or so, it started to change gears a bit rough, especially from 1st to 2nd when cold. I changed the oil but it's no use, the changes are still rough. Another problem with it, when the engine is cold and I stop at the lights, for example, if I brake sudden, the engine almost stalls, and sometimes it does stall. It seems to me that it doesn't disengage the gear, it remains stuck or something. And finally, I have gearbox oil in the coolant system. I read on some sites that the gearbox oil pipes connect somehow with the radiator for the engine coolant, is that true ? I visited several mechanics, and every single one told me that I need a new gearbox, or scrap the car because it's not worth the effort, moneywise. What do you think is wrong with the gearbox ? Do you know some second hand one for sale ? Any response is appreciated.

Problem solved !!!!! Rather embarrassingly, it was my fault. There are two screws that hold a metal bracket stuck to the throttle body. That metal bracket holds the accelerator cable and the cruise control cable. I unscrewed them, not knowing that they have a certain position to be put back in. The holes for them allow a certain play and they have to be put back exactly as they were. Obviuosly, I didn't know that and in the manner that I put them togheter, the whole ensemble was tightening the accelerator cable, resulting in the high idle. Thanks for all the advice and opinions. PS Now I got a whole bunch of spare parts http://saabworld.net/images/smilies/blue/icon_smile.gif)

Hi Flemming, the gearbox oil has been changed last winter, only driven about 4000 km since. The colour is pinkish -red and the level is ok. However, the shifts are very rough sometimes, especially from first to second, and from park to reverse. And as I said before, in drive when I'm stationary, it's like someone is pushing the car from behind so I have to press the brake very hard to stop the car from moving forwards.

Changed the map sensor and the engine temperature sensor. No change in behaviour http://saabworld.net/images/smilies/blue/icon_sad.gif I guess I'll have to visit a Saab workshop. The closest one is 140 km away, so I'll have to get a day off from work.

The vacuum lines, IAC and PCV valve are all in good condition and in the correct places and pointing the way they should. There are no CEL lights on, and never were. Yesterday, I changed the turbo bypass valve, and the two large diameter rubber hoses coming from the turbo and the ones from the IAC and disconnected the battery for half an hour. The hissing noise is gone, but the idle issue still remains. With the engine cold it runs like a dream but as soon as it gets warmer the revs shot up to 2000 rpm. I'll try to find a replacement coolant temp sensor and MAP sensor to see if it makes any difference...

I did the test for the bypass valve and it doesn't allow air to be sucked, so I think it must be ok. @flemming I didn't have the time to find a workshop that can do such a test. I myself don't have the necessary tools or abilities :)

Is there a specific method to check this valve ? What should I do with it ? :)

Beside the problem with the high idle, I noticed a funny hissing sound when the turbo kicks in. I've benn driving this car for three years now and before I cleaned the throttle body, there was no hissing sound, no matter how I drove the car. What could I have damaged when cleaning the throttle body that would cause this problems?

I checked the butterfly valve, it sits exactly horizontally on idle, so its ok. I also checked the CEL light again (with this method http://www.saabcentral.com/~munki/technical/engine/electrical/cel_codes_trionic.htm), and there are no recorded errors. The PCV valve was changed about a year and a half ago, but I still checked it: it lets air flow from the engine to the throttle body, but not vicevers, so this is good as well. One thing I did notice though.....while the engine is at a relative cold temperature, it idles normally, like it should. Once it reaches its normal temperature, the idle rises.... My first thought was the engine coolant sensor, but I got that replaced in February.

Ok, so I'll plug the hose coming from the air filter box, and the one from the Throttle body and put a manometer in the circuit to see if there are any pressure losses ?

I'm no sure what the AMM stands for.... http://www.saabwiki.info/images/2/28/Vh_1a.jpg Can you please pin point it on this picture ?

There is no CEL or any other warning light. Both the old IAC and the "new" one (bought second-hand from ebay from a trustworthy guy ) when are connected it idles at about the same rpm ~1600-2000. When I disconnect the electirc wire that gets power to them the idle shoots up to about 2500-3000, so I guess they work fine. If there's a more comprehensive way of testing, I'm open for suggestions. I didn't check if the butterfly valve is shut at idle speed. I'll check this afternoon and report back. The vacuum lines seem ok, I only changed them last year with silicone ones. " Is there a possibilty to do a pressure loss test of the intake" How can I do this kind of test ? thanks

Hi, First of all, I would like to say hello to all of you Saab drivers out there and sorry for the writing in English, but my German isn't that good. I hope some of you cand give me some advice to how to fix my problem: About a month or so I decided to clean the throttle body on my 1996 NG900 Turbo Automatic. After the job was done, I noticed that in Park or Neutral the idle went up from 900-1000 rpm to almost 2000 rpm. After this, I thought it was a vacuum problem, so I checked all the vaccum lines, changed the throttle body seal and the IAC valve, but to no positive result. This is how the engine idles while stationary (when I select Drive the revs drop) This is the idle while driving, and moving the selector from Drive to Neutral. The revs just go up and down..... I also noticed that while the car is in Drive and moving at slow speeds, it's like someone is pushing it from behind and if I take my foot of the brake it gathers quite a lot of speed, to almost 40 km/h without accelerating !!! Here is an example: Any ideas to what might cause this ? PS Sorry for the poor quality of the videos.