Saab 9000 Automatikgetriebe: Austausch Dichtungen Fliehkraftregler u. Reparaturhandbücher für den ZF-Getriebeservice, download

Handbücher Siehe:
Saab 9000 Ergänzung ZF-4HP-18 Reparaturhandbuch – ATSG (Automatic Transmission Service Group)

eine ausführliche bebilderte Anleitung für den Austausch der Dichtungen des Fliehkraftreglers gibt es hier:
https://www.hexfiles.com/users/shan/DIY/9000/Governor_Valve_Seal_Replacement/index.html

Lesenswert ist auch dieser Beitrag von "saabcentral".
Ein paar Auszüge:
"If there is no maintenance record be careful. Pull the dipstick and wipe it off on a clean piece of white paper. Clear red is perfect, a little dark is ok but change it soon, dark brown or black deposits or burned smell means walk away. Also go for a long test drive as sticky valves often start playing up only after the trannie is warm. Pay special attention to the 3-4 and 4-3 shifts under various load conditions. If the oil looks ok and the transmission shifts smooth, go for it.
...

The problem is worn governor seals. This condition manifests itself in many ways, most often shuddering after slow down. But also it will cause extreme over revving, high shift points, total loss of reverse (usually temporary) and difficulty shifting into 3rd and 4th. ... Common symptoms: 1. shifting up too soon, or not down shifting when slowing down. Can shudder or attempt to stall engine when stopping. 2. Occasionally no reverse engagement. 3. Shifting up and down seemingly at random, while driving at steady speed.
...
besides the governor seals there are unfortunately 2 more common failure modes, the good news is that they are all easy fixable:
- sticky valve in the valve body, caused by dirty oil/lack of maintenance. Mostly the 3-4 or 4-3 traction valve will lock up, causing erratic or no shifting into 4th and a complete loss of forward drive if the car slows down coming from 4th gear. Also can cause whining noises. Sometimes temporary cures itself when the trannie cools down.
- broken or worn springs in the valve body, causing all kinds of issues. Mostly on the older trannies, the newer ones have upgraded parts ....Also there is a spring -Accumulator spring 0732-042-227 is usually bad one when you have slow 4-3 downshifts and D-1 engagements."

Anleitung zum Wechsel:
Before you start, get 5 L of ATF dexron II, a new gasket for the side cover, a set of new rings for the governor (2 rubber, one metal) and a new bolt. Best to order those at a transmission repair shop. The bolt comes in 2 lengths, 24 or 70 mm. Based on the transmission number a good repair shop should be able to get you the correct one.


Alldata's R&R procedure:

Removal
1. Start by removing the lefthand front wheel and the front half of the fender liner.
2. Undo the 13 screws (Screw size = TORX TX7).
3. Lift off the intermediate gear cover and then remove the gasket.
4. Remove the screw on the pinion shaft:

• From Transmission No. 14498, the screw is secured with Loctite.

• When removing, the screw must be heated to 120°C (248°F).

• From transmission No. 20426 in model year 1998, the screw is secured with with a bendable flange.

• Bend up the flange and undo the screw on the pinion shaft.

• On all transmissions, the parking pawl must be engaged.

• Socket = 36 mm.

5. Remove the gear from the pinion shaft.
6. Heat using a hot air gun and remove the bearing race.
7. Lift out the governor together with the governor housing. NOTE:

• When cleaning the governor, only undo the retaining screws so that the governor can be removed.

• Check that the governor valve moves freely.

• If the valve is stuck, dismantle the governor and thoroughly clean the parts.

• Lubricate the parts using automatic transmission fluid before assembly.

• Install the governor in its housing.

• se a TORX TX27 wrench.

• Tighten to 10 Nm (7.3 ft. lbs.) .

Installation
1. Apply Vaseline to the seals and carefully install the complete governor. NOTE: When the governor is correctly installed, the governor hub should be level with the splines on the pinion shaft.
2. Heat the housing with a suitable hot air gun for 3-5 min., to about 70°C , and install the bearing race.
3. Install the spacer sleeve and washer to the pinion shaft and install the gear.
4. Insert the parking pawl and tighten screw.

• A flange screw has been introduced.

• When installing, any screw without a flange should be replaced with the newer flange screw.

• There is a long and a short version of this screw.

• Tightening torque, 24 mm long screw: 150 Nm (110 ft. lbs.) .

• Tightening torque, 70 mm long screw: 170 Nm (124.7 ft. lbs.) .

5. Apply a thin coat of Vaseline to the gasket and install it.
6. Install the intermediate gear cover with the 13 screws (screw size = TORX TX27). Tightening torque: 10 Nm (7.3 ft. lbs.)
7. Install fender liner and wheel.

Although it is not a difficult job, it is almost a neccesity to have an impact wrench (to break that big bolt free) and some heat to aid in bearing R&R.

Ergänzung:
- keep the internals of the box as clean as possible!
- putting the box in P will lock the axles so you can undo the bolt that holds the gear.
- An impact wrench for the bolt is not necessary. The socket size is 36 mm, make sure you have one that will grip a bolt with a very flat head
- after removing the bolt you can take off the gear by hand. The inner bearing race will come out with the gear.
- behind the gear are one or 2 washers and a sleeve/bush, take them out and make sure you don't loose them!
- the outer bearing race is pressed into the gearbox housing but the fit is not very tight. Use a large screwdriver and some leverage and out it pops. Make sure it comes out straight. I never applied heat but I guess it doesn't hurt to do so.
- now you're looking straight at the governor. Just pull it out by hand and you can see the rings. In your case I'll put my money on the one in the middle, probably broken. If so make sure to collect all the pieces
- clean the surfaces on the side cover, makes sure you remove all of the old gasket.
- replace the rings and put back the governor. Take great care in not damaging the rings while doing so, apply vaseline or clean ATF. It should slide in without much force.
- depending on how tight the fit of the outer bearing race is, it can be necessary to heat up the gear box casing (not the bearing!) before you press it back in. Use a hot air gun/paint stripper
- make sure you put back the washers and sleeve behind the gear in exactly the way they came out as those are used to set the bearing play on the axle
-torque down the new bolt to 150 nm for the 24 mm or 170 nm for the 70 mm. Lock the bolt with a small hammer and chisel or so, just gentle, don't hammer the * out of it
- while you're there, remove and clean the filter, magnet and put in fresh atf

Bearbeitet 27. April 2026 um 07:2227. Apr 2026 von ST 2